. The Tasting Palette .
. My Tasting Palette .

. In celebration of food and dining experiences .



Archives Interests
    Indulging myself in food porn (online or food magazines)
    Exploring and discovering new restaurants
    Dining and chilling out with my loved ones
    Baking and cooking over the weekends
    Sharing my love for food with others
Wishlist
    Desserts by Pierre Herme- Written by Dorie Greenspan
    Vanilla bean pods (one can never have enough)
    Valrhona Cocoa powder
    Valrhona chocolate
    Macarons from Laduree and Pierre Herme
    Madelines mold
    Pretty cake stands (I only have one and only one)
    YUZU from Japan! (They taste great in almost anything)
    A food tour to Italy and France
    Opportunity to study at Le Cordon Bleu



Sunday, August 31, 2008

The way to a man's heart is through his stomach




I firmly believe in the adage, "The way to a man's heart is through his stomach". This is especially true for the 2 men in my life who appreciates good food.

My sis and I asked my dad where he would like to go for his birthday dinner and he said "I want a home cooked meal by Si and J. (Note that he did not mention my sister) Can you cook the roasted leg of lamb? The one you made the last time?"

I grandly offered to bake him a birthday cake as well, to which he requested a sponge cake with lots of chocolate.

That was how we landed ourselves in the kitchen for most part of the weekend-5 hrs on Saturday and 3 hrs on Sunday.

To be very honest, I did not spend as much time planning the menu as I ought to have done due to my countless distractions through the week that manifested itself even in my sleep. Thankfully, I had J around especially on Saturday when we launched our most ambitious baking efforts.

J convinced me that we should bake the Carioca, a dessert recipe by Pierre Herme. It fitted my dad’s request- sponge cake, very chocolatey.

This cake consisted of four main components: the genoise cake (a type of sponge cake), coffee syrup, chocolate mousse, dark chocolate ganache.

There were many hiccups in the baking process including not having enough heavy cream so we ended having to go out to two places before we actually found what we wanted. For many reasons, I was in a cranky state which made me easily irritable and emotional.

Fortunately, I had with me the calming presence that I most need. J and I worked hard, each taking charge of a component. J, the sugar syrup and coffee syrup and I, the genoise. After which, we made the mousse together and temper the chocolate for the ganache icing.


The genoise

Making the chocolate mousse

The cake was put together, gingerly, layer by layer. We are really proud of our creation. The genoise could be improved. Kahlua could be added to the coffee syrup to give it a stronger flavour. And the caramelized almonds could have been watched over more carefully. But it was good.

This must be the most tedious dessert we ever baked but it was also the one that gave me the most gratification. I enjoyed watching the slices of cake disappearing. That’s the testament to good dessert, ain’t it?



The Carioca


Zoom in on the layers: genoise cake soked in coffee syrup, chocolate mousse, genoise cake, covered with dark chocolate ganache

Decorated with caramelised blanched almonds and rochers


That’s just icing on the cake.
The next day, we prepared a hearty 4-course birthday meal.

The menu

Plums wrapped with proscuitto ham on a bed of rocket

Roasted leg of lamb with tomato-based aubergines

Joel Robuchon’s potato puree

Light dessert

Cheese

***

The roasted leg of lamb was back by popular demand. This turned out as well and went perfectly with the tangy tomato sauce with baked onions and aubergines.



Marinating the lamb: stuffing it with rosemary and marinating it with oregano, black pepper, sea salt, olive oil and pinot noir



The leg of lamb with the potato puree

The starter was a simple one but the wonders of the flavours and textures made this a light but delightful start.

Red plums with proscuitto on rocket

The star of the dinner was, however, the often-neglected potato puree or mash. People often treat dish as carbs to fill the stomach or an unexciting side dish. You wouldn’t say the same once you have tasted the rich, buttery, smooth potato mash by Joel Robuchon. His secret lies in having lots and lots of good butter. About a ratio of 1:1 for potato to butter. The trick to having a perfect mash texture is to pass the puree through a sieve. It’s definitely TEDIOUS work. J can attest to that. But rest assured that your efforts would be well-rewarded.



Melting the french butter with the potato mash



the loveliest mash

Dessert was unintended, for a lack of a better word. I just thought we should end off dinner on a sweeter note. Having leftover chocolate mousse and coffee syrup from Saturday’s cake, we decided to throw together a simple dessert. We experiment with colours and flavours to form distinct layers.

Our final product was a dessert in a whiskey/wine glass- layering diced strawberries, chocolate mousse and coffee –kahlua soaked ladyfingers, sprinkled with blanched almond slices.


Easy dessert

Dinner did not just end on a sweet note. It ended on a high with brie, pinot noir, happy people, and an even happier me. I had only expected my dad to be pleased about the meal and the cake. But let me tell you, the food did so much more. Now armed with the support that I had been seeking, I experienced a release of joy and exhilaration.

I’m now a step closer to my dream.






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Sunday, August 24, 2008

Licence to Grill

The barbeque is perhaps the most maligned term in cooking. It is not only a rite of passage for youths (which self-respecting teen has not been to a chalet and BBQ?), but is also synonymous with over/undercooked food or chicken wings reminiscent of the charcoal that produced them.

S has always had a love for barbeque (one which I did not quite understand initially I have to admit) and our barbeques are beginning to feature a more elaborate spread ideal for our cosy family dinners.


The theme for our BBQ this time is kebabs and all things skewered. While the menu looked simple enough, all the chopping and skewering meant that we were in the kitchen for a good 5 hours! Definitely not for the faint hearted.

Flaming the peppers

Looking at the menu, let's start with the bell peppers. This is the first time we tried cooking (although flaming is a better word) the peppers on the stove. It's the preferred method of cooking shows and cook books but I must say its rather scary. The final verdict is that roasting with olive oil still wins hands-down as olive oil imbues a nice olive flavour in the peppers while flaming results in a charred aftertaste.

Lovely greens with asparagus, cherry tomatoes, carrots,

aubergines and zucchini

For the mains, we have a very scandinavian White Fish Fillet wrapped with bacon and lemon. This is a simple way of making fish and the beauty i think lies in tasting the original flavours of the fish.








As for the kebab proper, we are proud to present Thai inspired Chicken kebabs and Beef with Okra and Cherry Tomatoes.

With a marinate consisting of sesame oil, fish sauce, lemon juice, corriander and chilli, the chicken kebabs were always going to prove popular. The beef kebabs were a nice combination of colours but were a challenge for weak teeth and dentures.

I think barbeques are about the most participatory form of dining. Don't let it become synonymous with charred chicken wings and the result can be a greatly satisfying and highly entertaining affair.








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C-R-E-A-T-E: Simple Japanese Sunday Lunch


I experienced an epiphany over this weekend. It was a series of events that lead to it. Strangely enough, I feel a myriad of emotions- of excitement, inspiration, and determination. And truth be told, I cannot be more happy, and more at ease than ever.


At times like this, I love to channel this newfound energy into creation, and mostly, the creation of food. This time, it took the form of savoury. It was all pretty simple. Just 3 dishes for a light lunch for the family.

Our amuse bouche was inspired by our vegetarian meal at Domvs, utilising only the freshest of ingredients- tomato, sea salt and julienned ginger.

The simmered gyu was the star of the meal. The sauce, consisting of the wine, shoyu, mirin (Japanese cooking wine), caster sugar and onions have been simmering in the pan for close to 45 minutes. If only we had found the right beef slices (the shabu shabu type)! Culina apparently doesn't serve Japanese customers, so we had to make do with beef flanks which apparently doesn't give the right texture cause of its size.

The miso mushrooms were back on our dinner table by popular demand. I, like all my family members, still like this dish very much. J and I still can't get over our amazement over what miso can do to food!

Chilled tofu with molten eggs was our third and final dish. Topped with black sesame seeds, served with a heap of grated ginger, it's the best way to counter the summer heat or the gloominess of the rainy weather.

My sis was pretty peeved when she heard that I was cooking lunch when she was going to be out. However, she managed to sneak a molten egg, and some miso shrooms into her mouth, just before she headed out of the house. Sometimes, I do wonder when she will start to hang out more in the kitchen other than to look for food.

After the dishes were cleared, J and I started flipping cookbooks and food magazines for inspiration, planning for my dad's birthday dinner against a backdrop of the pitter-patter, falling raindrops.

There would be lamb...chocolate...wine...
I cannot wait. My dad too.

***
Our every little creations bear our mind's thoughts and our heart's sentiment.

Our Amuse bouche

Simmered beef with onions


Miso-shrooms

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Monday, August 18, 2008

English Carrot Cake (Dorie Greenspan recipe)

English Carrot Cake

Plain and unadorned

It's my sheer delight to announce how I've finally found the perfect carrot cake recipe that works best for me. The traditional English carrot cake is the cake that I would order over and over again when I'm at cafes. It's a cake that my best friend and I would share over endless conversations. It is also the cake that I'll binge on when I feel upset in school. You can say that the carrot cake is my comfort food, or dessert.

I've been on a search for a perfect carrot cake recipe ever since I started baking. I remember using a recipe from Nigella Lawsons before moving on to one from Jamie Oliver. They were lovely in their own right but somehow, they don't quite work for me.

The search ended when I tested the recipe from Dorie Greenspan's Baking from my home to yours. I got the recipe off the web though I really do wish and hope to own that book really soon. (hints)

The texture of the cake is nice and crumbly without being too moist or dry. I love the plump golden raisins and fragrant walnut pieces in between the cake. Even though the recipe suggested including coconut shavings, I decided to go without them just because I don't fancy coconut in all forms.

Surprisingly, I feel that the cake taste really wholesome and healthy-the ones without the frosting of course.

The frosting added a good contrast to the cake too. I added some lemon zest and quite a bit more lemon juice as I love the tart characteristic of the frosting. The downside was that I did not have enough frosting!! Would definitely double the portion the next time. I did not even make a three-layer cake as I only had two cake tins of this size.

My dad did not have complaints about this cake at all. He did not even say a word till he finished the entire slice. My uncle had the cake as his dinner. And my mum, the health-conscious queen, stamped her approval on this cake that "isn't too sweet or oily". (Of course, she ate the one without the frosting.)
This, will definitely be filed under one of my favourite recipes.



I baked some in mini moulds too because there was a lot of batter!

Give me a slice anytime!


Sitting by my window, having a slice and appreciating the glow of the morning sunshine

***

Bill’s Big Carrot Cake Recipe
Adapted from: Baking: From My Home to Yours by Dorie Greenspan

Yields 10 servings (More than 10 actually)


Ingredients:

For the cake:

2 cups

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons baking soda

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon nutmeg

¾ teaspoon salt

3 cups grated carrots (about 9 carrots, you can grate them in food processor fitted w/ a shredding a blade or use a box grater)- I used only about 350g

1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts or pecans

1 cup shredded coconut (sweetened or unsweetened)- I omitted the use of coconut

½ cup moist, plump raisins (dark or golden) or dried cranberries

2 cups sugar

1 cup canola oil

4 large eggs

For the frosting:

8 ounces cream cheese, room temperature

1 stick ( 8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 pound confectioners’ sugar, sifted

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice or ½ teaspoon pure lemon extract

½ cup (40g) shredded coconut (optional)

Finely chopped toasted nuts and/or toasted shredded coconut (optional)


Getting ready:

Position the racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat the oven to 325 degrees Fahrenheit (or 160C). Butter three 9-x-2-inch (23cm x 5cm) round cake pans, flour the insides, and tap out the excess. Put the two pans on one baking sheet and one on another.


To make the cake:

Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon and salt. In another bowl, stir together the carrots, chopped nuts, coconut, and raisins.

Working with a stand mixer, preferably fitted with a paddle attachment, or with a hand mixer in a large bowl, beat the sugar and oil together on a medium speed until smooth. Add the eggs one by one and continue to beat until the batter is even smoother. Reduce the speed to low and add the flour mixture, mixing only until the dry ingredients disappear. Gently mix the chunky ingredients. Divide the batter among the baking pans. each layer will weigh about 550g.

Bake for 40-50 minutes, rotating the pans from top to bottom and front to back at the midway point, until a thin knife inserted into the centers comes out clean. The cakes will have just started to come away from the sides of the pans. Transfer the cakes to cooling racks and cool for about 5 minutes, then run a knife around the sides of the cakes and unmold them. Invert and cool to room temperature right side up.

The cakes can be wrapped airtight and kept at room temperature overnight or frozen for up to 2 months.


To make the frosting:

Working with a stand mixer, preferably fitted with a paddle attachment or with a hand mixer in a large bowl, beat the cream cheese and butter together until smooth and creamy. Gradually add the sugar and continue to beat until the frosting is velvety smooth. Beat in the lemon juice or extract.

If you’d like coconut in the filling, scoop about half of the frosting and stir the coconut into this position.


To assemble the cake:

Put one layer top side up on a cardboard cake round or a cake plate protected by strips of wax or parchment paper. If you added the coconut to the frosting, use half of the coconut frosting to generously cover the first layer (or generously cover with plain frosting). Use an offset spatula or a spoon to smooth the frosting all the way to the edges of the layer. Top with the second layer, this time placing the cake stop side down, and frost with the remainder of the coconut frosting or plain frosting. Top with the last layer, right side up, and frost the top- and the sides- of the cake. Finish the top with swirls of frosting. If you want to top the cake with toasted nuts or coconut, sprinkle them on now while the frosting is soft.

Refrigerate the cake for 30 minutes, just to set the frosting before serving.

Serving:

This cake can be served as soon as the frosting is set. It can also wait, at room temperature and covered with a cake keeper overnight. The cake is best served in thick slices at room temperature and while it’s good plain, it’s even better with vanilla ice cream or some lemon curd.


Storing:

The cake will keep at room temperature for 2 to 3 days. It can also be frozen. Freeze it uncovered, then when it’s firm, wrap airtight and freeze for up to 2 months. Defrost, still wrapped, overnight in the refrigerator.

***

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Wednesday, August 13, 2008

National day weekend baking

I cherish every public holidays especially those that falls on Friday or Monday. Long weekends just feels great! I'll never fail to get that inspiration to bake/cook. This National day weekend, I bbq-ed, and baked, and baked again.

It started off with Friday baking for J. My friend, R, gave me a biscotti to munch as an afternoon snack. That started our conversation on biscotti and how perfect those Italian biscuits go with coffee, tea or on its own. I was reminded how I have not baked them in a long, long while.

This time, I was convinced to do something different, not the usually almond biscotti but one with lemon, pine nuts and raisins. I found the recipe on delicious days and added the raisins to which my dad thinks that the taste of the raisins and lemon do not quite go while the others think that it taste great. I should have baked it longer cause Nicky from delicious days actually mentioned that she tweaked the baking time as she prefer the biscotti less than "rock hard". I, however, feel that these twice-baked biscuits should be so.

In any case, they were great and all finished up by the end of Saturday. I would go back to my almond biscotti recipe just because I prefer the rich flavour of the almonds as compared to the mildly flavoured pine nuts.


Biscotti loafs waiting to be sliced before baking again


Lemon & Pine nuts biscotti

On Saturday, I tried a new recipe off Cuisine & Wine magazine for a pavlova. That was supposed to be the light dessert after the bbq since I could not find mascapone cheese for the tiramisu. Sad to say, after 2 hours, the pavlova wasn't meant to be. The texture was not right. You can't imagine my disappointment. In a fit of anger, I poked it all over, cursed it and threw it away. J found me quite scary at that moment. Well, let's just say that I might have overreacted.

We had to contend ourselves with grilled fruits for desserts for our bbq. There are just great as well. Try grilling sliced green apples and sweet honey pineapples. You will be handsomely rewarded! Believe me!

Sunday afternoon was spent in the kitchen. Chocolate two-ways. Actually, J and I only had the intention of baking the tart since we had remainder sweet pastry dough and a pint of raspberries.

To cut the story short, we baked a chocolate tart and a chocolate cake in the end as a result of 'unforeseen miscalculations'. Well, who's gonna complain about having too much chocolates.

And so, we ate happily and my family didn't have to worry about tea break snacks. My grandma is one big fan, always nagging at me to start up a pastry shop on my own. How I wish. For now, I'm content with the sublime moments of baking and cooking.



Close-up
Chocolate cake sprinkled with raspberries and almonds


Very pretty Chocolate Raspberry Tart



I have never found a chocolate tart that I enjoy eating so much

***

Pignoli Cantuccini (Biscotti)

Adapted from deliciousdays

Recipe source: Biscotti, Lou Seibert Pappas, p.18

Prep time: 15min., baking: 40-50min.

.

Ingredients (yield: ~30 pieces):

90g pine nuts

100g butter

150g sugar

2 eggs

2 tbsp lemon juice

zest of one lemon

300g flour

1 1/2 tsp baking powder

a pinch of salt

( I threw in raisins too)

Preheat oven to 170°C (325°F). Toast pine nuts in a shallow pan over medium heat for about 6 minutes or until nuts are fragrant and (lightly) browned. Then set aside to cool.

In a bowl beat soft butter and sugar until light and creamy, then add eggs, lemon zest and juice. Stir well.

In a separate bowl combine flour, salt and baking powder, then add to the first bowl and mix until well blended. Finally fold in the toasted nuts.

Divide the dough into two equal parts, form thin loafs and place on a cookie sheet (lined with parchment paper). Make sure they are neither too close to each other nor to the sides of the sheet. My dough was a little sticky, but when I dusted the board and my hands with flour, it worked fine.

Bake in the preheated oven for about 25 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove from oven and transfer to a wire rack, allow to cool for a few minutes.

Place on a cutting board and carefully slice slantwise into 1/2 - 3/4 inch slices. Lay slices flat on the baking sheet and return to the oven for an additional 20 minutes (same temperature), turning them once after 10 minutes. Then remove from oven and let cool on the wire rack. Store at room temperature in an airtight tin or container.

Note: I think that you can afford to bake it longer if you like your biscotti rock hard.

***


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Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Lunch at Nicholas Le


Nicholas Le

I’m glad to hear about the burgeoning food scene in Singapore especially when it comes to French restaurants. The chef and owner, Nicholas Joanny, used to cook at Les Saisons a few years back before he went to cook in Thailand. Now, he’s back with a bang, opening his own French restaurant.

I know that Nicholas Le isn’t that new. I just have not quite had the chance of dining there ever since I couldn’t get a table when I tried making a reservation a few months back.

My foodie dad has tried the degustation dinner menu a couple of times and he only has good things to say. That made me more determined to try it out for myself. The opportunity came when my company gave us a day off last Friday.

My dad, sis and I headed to Nicholas Le for lunch. It’s been awhile since we went out for a good meal together due largely to our clashing schedules.

The small restaurant is situated along the row of shophouses along Keong Siak Road. (Pretty near Majestic Hotel which is on the next lane) The restaurant was already packed with lunch-goers so I’m glad that I made a reservation.

They only had a set lunch menu at $38 ++ for a 3 course meal with coffee/tea. If you choose certain dishes (ie. the foie gras and rack of lamb), you would have to pay more. But I just could not resist the foie gras and the rack of lamb.

We were first served a small baguette with butter. It was nice and warm but the butter was a tad salty for my liking. I prefer the natural taste of the unsalted kind.

The amuse bouche for the day was a roasted bell peppers puree served with Iberian ham (gourmet Spanish ham that has just arrived on our shores). I love the combination of the naturally sweet tasting bell peppers with the intense and distinctive flavour of the Iberian ham. No surprises why it’s known as one of the best cured hams in the world.

Amuse Bouche

Both my sis and I ordered the pan roasted duck foie gras was served with marmalade of eggplant, vanilla and cinnamon and aged balsamic vinegar. One reason why this foie gras wins over all others- its size. I’m shocked by the generosity of the serving portion. The marmalade of eggplant worked really well in terms of balancing the fatty piece of duck liver with some sweetness. Other than that, it fared rather averagely, nothing remarkable. My main peeve lies with the fact that it wasn’t seared enough so it lacks the aroma and crispy outer-skin that a pan-seared foie gras should have.


Pan-roasted duck foie gras was served with marmalade of eggplant, vanilla and cinnamon and aged balsamic vinegar


My dad tried the crispy frogs legs which my sis thinks tasted like chicken. But that’s just my sis.


Crispy frog leg

As for the mains, all three of us, meat lovers went straight for the rack of lamb. I can’t even really recall what the other mains are on the menu. Since young, my dad has been telling us how the rack of lamb is the best part of the lamb. That subtle indoctrination has worked. I would never fail to order the rack of lamb if I do spy it on the menu. I believe that this is the same for my sis.


Rack of lamb

The sheer anticipation for our mains soon turned into a real letdown. I don’t think that they got our orders right as the meat that we were served were definitely rare and not medium like what we have requested. I also thought that they should be seared and let the top most layer brown even more. That being said, it wasn’t bad; it just wasn’t what I expected and it wasn’t the best I’ve had. I love the mash potatoes with the truffle butter though and I don’t even like potatoes.

I went out of my comfort zone when I ordered dessert. My dad and sis stayed loyal to their favourite- Chocolate. I actually ordered a orange panna cotta with mango espuma. I’m glad that I felt adventurous that day cause the panna cotta took me my surprise. It was unlike its counterparts by being rich and heavy. Rather, it was light, citrusy and I love the pairing with mango espuma. The rich, sweetness of the mango together with the citrusy orange. The chocolate tart was not too fantastic though. The sweet pastry shell was dry and overall, it was a miss.


Orange panna cotta


Chocolate tart

Though this isn’t close to being a great dining experience, I do think that I would give it a second try, probably for dinner as my dad suggest. I heard that they do have a great degustation menu with weekly changes. I can see a lot of potential in the food. The use of espumas.. the experiments of new ingredient pairings..combined with the traditional, tried-and-tested methods.. I believe that Nicholas Le has much more to offer.

***
Nicholas Le
35 Keong Saik Road
Tel: 6224 2404
Opening hours: 12 noon- 2pm (Mon-Sat)
Dinner: 630pm-10pm
(Closed on Sundays)

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